Lactose intolerance may not mean the end of dairy consumption

A Professional Dairy Producers of Wisconsin webinar illuminated the condition and how we can work around it.

At 18 I gave up dairy and gluten to serve my digestive health. My doctor told me both foods exacerbated the gastrointestinal irritation I’d been experiencing. Going cold turkey helped for a while — the gurgling that had once plagued every meal quieted, and I regained control over the way my body felt day-to-day. However, a few years later, a lab test revealed I was deficient in vitamins B12, A, and D and minerals magnesium and potassium. My body wasn’t getting the nutrients it needed, and while over-the-counter supplements provided a retroactive solution, I longed for a concrete fix: a definitive equation to my years-long gut health proof. 

Around the same time as I learned of my malnutrition, I’d started working part-time at Hoard’s Dairyman, learning all kinds of interesting and illuminating details about what goes into American dairy farming, both as a practice and as a production leader for one of our basic food groups. One thing led to another, and I began to wonder about reintroducing milk products back into my diet. 

I began with what was literally right in front of me: Hoard’s Dairy Farm Creamery’s gouda cheese. I took my own triangle home and ate a small amount each day — wholly astounded by its quality — and began to realize it didn’t bother my stomach. I then purchased organic grass-fed whole milk at a local co-op and began putting it in my morning coffee. This proved to still adversely affect my digestion, and I became discouraged once again. I didn’t know what to do — should I continue purposefully irritating my gut in order to obtain nutrients I need or stick to my prior restrictions and find those nutrients elsewhere? 

Cue Professional Dairy Producers of Wisconsin’s webinar, “Understanding lactose intolerance.”

“If you cut anything out completely, you cut out all the nutritional value that goes along with that food group, and you could become deficient in those nutrients,” said Center for Dairy Research outreach program manager Andrea Miller during her presentation. 

Had this webinar not been made for me? 

There is a difference between an intolerance and an allergy, Miller emphasized. An intolerance is when something gets in the way of digestion and absorption, causing gastrointestinal upset (for example, our friend lactose intolerance), whereas an allergy triggers an immune response and can be life-threatening (for example, a peanut allergy). An intolerance may not require elimination of the food in its entirety, while an allergy mandates you do just that, so your first step should be determining if what you have is an allergy or an intolerance. Then, you can move forward with smart dietary decisions.

If what you suffer from is in fact an intolerance, note that reactions are highly variable. There are a number of factors that can contribute to the severity of a reaction, such as time of day, age, stress, pace of eating, accompanying foods, hormones, and quality of chewing. In this way, it can be difficult to pinpoint causes of symptoms, because a food may have one effect one time and a different effect at another time. This can make it incredibly frustrating to address food intolerances.  

But there is hope! First, let’s break down some of the science behind what goes on when we lactose intolerant sufferers consume milk. 

What’s really going on?

In order for lactose, a disaccharide (two-sugar molecule), to enter the bloodstream and be used for its intended purpose, it has to be broken down by an enzyme called lactase. Lactase breaks down the two-sugar disaccharide into two monosaccharaides (separate sugar molecules): galactose and glucose. These are then absorbed into the bloodstream as energy. 

Without lactase, lactose goes through the digestive system without being broken down; thus, it is undigested and unabsorbed, resulting in the gas and bloating that lactose intolerant individuals are familiar with. This also means it isn’t turned into the energy it is intended to be. If your lactase enzyme is underperforming or if you were born without one (both common conditions), you are almost guaranteed to experience discomfort when consuming dairy. 

The problem is: milk is a nutrient-dense food, containing the complete proteins found in animal products, rich levels of vitamins and minerals, and healthy, full fats. Basically, milk is pretty great. But who wants to be in chronic pain? If your body rejects it, what then? 

In her presentation, Miller outlined some ways to work around this. 

Wait, I can shop in the dairy aisle?

Eating cultured dairy products is one way to mitigate lactose intolerant symptoms. Cultured foods are foods that are strained, removing whey from their final form. Whey is the water-protein liquid left behind, and it is where most of the lactose lies. So, when whey is filtered out, lactose is filtered out, too, resulting in less disaccharides needing breaking down by our systems. 

Given that this filtration is a part of the cheesemaking process, cheese is perhaps the most tolerable form of dairy for lactose intolerant individuals. Other cultured products include Greek yogurt, kefir, crème freche, sour cream, and ultra-filtered milk (milk that has been strained and condensed). 

The bottom line: Cultured products contains less lactose in their final form and are more tolerable to consume. 

Another solution is to look for “lactose-free” milk, which contains an added lactase enzyme, or to take an over-the-counter lactase supplement to aid in the lactose-breakdown process. 

The end of the tunnel

For six years, I watched in envy as my lactose tolerant friends enjoyed cheeses and frappes and custards without a thought to their digestive tract. My intestines were an adversary to be conquered: a dragon guarding the castle of taste, a troll under the bridge to nutrients. I stewed in front of the milk alternative case, visions of dairy dancing in my head. 

Now, I am equipped with an educated lens through which I can approach my dairy consumption. My doctor was right in trying to help me find a way to ease my symptoms, but I wish someone had told me about the science behind my condition and ways to work around it when I was first navigating gut health. For those who identify with this struggle, I hope you find a path forward, too. 

Now, for my gluten intolerance… If someone has that figured out, you know where to find me. 

“Become one with the cheese!”

What do you get when you mix British tradition with modern-day intrigue? Hint: it involves cheese and minor injuries.

“Cheese is all we do. It’s all we’ve ever done,” Antonia of Chris Thomas’ 2019 short film Let’s Roll said to her mother in defense of her decision to compete in her town’s famous cheese roll race down Cooper’s Hill. 

Antonia’s obsession with the race and its glory comes from the legacy of winners within her family tree, but the competition also, as the film suggests, proves to be a kind of calling experienced by a select few — the hill is either of you, or it isn’t. 

Every spring, men and women from around the world journey to the Southern UK town of Gloucestershire to compete in a downhill chase after an eight-pound wheel of cheese. According to BBC, the hill’s slope is a staggering 45 degrees over 200 yards. One cannot “run” so much as “tumble” down it. Assuming one hasn’t been knocked unconscious during the lacerating race (as was Delaney Irving of Canada in 2023), a first-place finish elicits post-race interviews, the cheese wheel itself, and, of course, severe bragging rights. (Irving did in fact earn the title — after waking up in the medical tent.)

This year’s race saw a normal number of bumps and bruises. Victors were from as far away as Australia and as close to home as Gloucestershire. North Carolinian Abby Lampe snatched her second victory in the women’s race, making the U.S. home to an unrivaled two-time world champion (take that, summer Olympics).

The race began sometime in the 1800s (or likely before), and its origin story is largely disputed. From its being alleged to have been a pagan ritual for celebrating the arrival of spring, to farmers asserting grazing rights on the hill, its true inception may never be known.

The event is put on solely by volunteers fueled by the power of tradition (and quirk appeal), without any official sponsorship from the county. (On the contrary, city officials regularly warn the public about its dangers, but this doesn’t seem to deter the hundreds of spectators and competitors who flock to the hill every spring).

The key to winning – maybe even just to avoiding injury – may be to embody what Antonia’s friend and coach Nigel says twice during Let’s Roll: 

“You’re becoming one with the cheese!”

Thinking about joining in on the festivities? Watch a video or two of the races first . . .

And speaking of cheese — if this hasn’t made you hungry for a wheel of your own, I’m not sure what will — check out Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery’s selection of cheeses. An American version of the cheese roll, anyone?  

Quiz time! Test your Guernsey cow knowledge

Guernsey cows originated in which country?

1. The United States of America

2. The United Kingdom

3. India

4. France

(Scroll past the image for the answer)

If you answered B. The United Kingdom, you’re right! Guernsey cows originated on the Isle of Guernsey, which is part of the United Kingdom.

Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery at the Shorewood Farmer’s Market

What better way to spend a summer weekend than by shopping for local goods?

This season, look for Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery cheese at our hometown farmer’s market in Fort Atkinson, Wis., and at the Shorewood Farmer’s Market in Shorewood, Wis. 

A lakefront village north of Milwaukee, Shorewood is an idyllic setting for a market. Vendors, live music, and community engagement abound amidst farm fresh produce and locally sourced products. 

Shorewood champions their gatherings as “an opportunity to engage directly with the growers and producers of food, teach kids about the importance of our agricultural roots and nutrition, and connect with our community within and beyond the village.”

The market is located in Estabrook Park and will run from June 16 to October 27 on Sundays between 9:30 a.m. and 1 p.m. 

After shopping, head to the Estabrook Beer Garden, the first public beer garden in the U.S.A. after Prohibition. The garden features imported beers from the Munich Hofbräuhaus in Germany as well as local craft beers, ciders, seltzers, draft root beer, and soft drinks. It sits on a bluff just above a waterfall and is steps away from park amenities such as disc golf, trails, and playgrounds. Bring a picnic, gather with friends, and enjoy the view. 

Be sure to say “Hello” to the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery staff at whichever market you attend, and happy summer! 

Cows, goats, and sheep cheese, oh my!

Mixed milk cheeses can be found all over the globe. Read on to learn about a couple standouts close by and far from home.

What is a mixed milk cheese? Sure, it’s some combination of milks, but which ones? Why mix milks to begin with? And what properties set mixed milk cheeses apart from their single-sourced cousins?

According to the Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin, mixing milks allows a cheesemaker to create all-new flavors and textures. It’s a “balancing act” that results in a unique blend of tang, creaminess, and depth — a perfect storm of the best properties and nutrients from each milk, resulting in a palatal encounter entirely its own. 

Most mixed milk cheeses in the U.S. and in Europe are some combination of goat, sheep, or cow’s milk. In countries where dairy buffalos abound, such as Nepal, India, and Pakistan, mixed milk cheeses may also include buffalo milk. 

Overall, milks from goats, sheep, and cows are comparable in their nutritional properties. However, goat milk contains slightly less lactose than cow’s (therefore being easier to digest for those with lactose intolerance) and sheep’s milk has the highest fat and protein content of all three but with the lowest yield. Cows can produce up to 8 gallons of milk a day, while sheep produce on average less than half a gallon per day. 

Goat’s milk also forms a softer curd than milk from cows or sheep, and it is lower in casein — the protein that causes curdling — which means goat cheese will crumble more easily than cheeses made with cow or sheep milk. 

So, what are some examples of mixed milk cheeses?

One most of us are familiar with — but may not have known to be mixed — is feta. The salty Greek cheese is traditionally made from a combination of sheep’s and goat’s milk. 

Other international mixed milk cheeses include variations of the Italian Romano, the Spanish Valdeon, and the French Pèrail. India’s paneer is usually made from a combination of cow and buffalo milk, and the Journal of Ethnic Foods cites the Nepalese chhurpi as a cheese made from cow, yak, and buffalo milk. 

There are a multitude of American-made mixed milk cheeses, too. Wisconsin’s own Ewe Calf to be Kidding, made from goat, cow, and sheep’s milk by Hook’s Cheese in Mineral Point, Wis., is firm and crumbly, with a melt-in-your-mouth texture. 

Canaria and Mobay cheeses, also made in Wisconsin at Carr Valley Cheese Co. in La Valle, are made from a combination of goat and cow’s milk. Canaria is smooth, fruity, and nutty, and Mobay is creamy, with mixed-in herbs or spices. 

Nettle Meadow Farm in New York makes a mixed cow and goat milk cheese called Kunik. According to their website, this cheese has “mushroom and earthy notes.”

Cremont is a cow and goat mixed-milk cheese made by Vermont Creamery. It has a smooth interior and a cream-colored rind. 

Finally, from Penngrove, Calif., Mi-Ewe, produced by Weirauch Farm and Creamery, is made from a mixture of cow’s and sheep’s milk. It features a semi-hard texture and a buttery, nutty flavor. 

Of course, this list is far from exhaustive. Try searching for mixed-milk varieties in your area. Don’t forget to check out our selection of Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery cheeses as well. Mixed-milk cheeses are fantastic, but there’s nothing like pure Guernsey milk Gouda.

Cheese Pairings

Searching for the yin to your favorite cheese’s yang? Read on to learn what drinks pair well with five of our Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery cheeses. 

Have you ever wondered what drink would serve as the perfect pair to your after-dinner serving of Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery Three-Month Cheddar? Or what to serve alongside your Gouda-Belaire cheeseboard? What about with your sweet baked St. Saviour? Then again, are any of us going to realistically splurge on trial and error experiments to figure it out? 

Luckily, our team at Hoard’s Dairyman has done the research and defined optimal wine, beer, and spirit pairings for five of our main cheeses, so all you have to do is sip, sit back, and reap the palatal rewards.

St. Saviour — our buttery, soft-ripened cheese — pairs well with any acidic wine. Think: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, dry rosés, and champagnes. It also goes nicely with ciders, fruity sours, and Saison, a dry and spicy pale ale. For spirits, consider an apple brandy, such as the French Calvados. 

Gouda’s complex flavor profile means its highest caliber pairings include Riesling, Chardonnay, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese wines; amber ale, brown ale, Pilsner, and stout beers; and vodka, brandy, and cognac.

Wines that accentuate our Three-Month Cheddar include Tempranillo, Syrah, Malbec, Merlot, and Rioja. Beers include Hefeweizen-style wheat beers, Kolsch, malts, and pale ales. For spirits, try any bourbon, brandy, whiskey, or vermouth. 

The creamy, subtle profile of our Belaire cheese requests the compliments of a rosé, Pinot Gris, or Moscato wine; a blonde ale, lager, or pilsner beer; or a splash of vodka, brandy, or cordials. (A cordial — also a liqueur — is a neutral spirit that has been redistilled with additional ingredients, such as Baileys Irish Cream liqueur.)

Lastly, Sark — a cheese that, according to my mother, “tastes like nostalgia” — may be accompanied by Chardonnay, Riesling, or a favorite lager. 

It’s hard to go wrong with any of the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery cheeses no matter your drink of choice, but for a top-tier flavor experience, consider following this guide next time you reach for the cutting board. 

Down on the Farm: Cow care

Cows on the Hoard’s Dairyman farm.

At the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm, the genetics of our Guernsey herd can be traced all the way back to the original herd raised by W.D. Hoard when he bought the farm in 1899. For over a hundred years, our farm has been providing quality milk to producers far and wide. 

What’s more, in 2021 (the most recent data currently available) the herd ranked first in the nation in milk, fat, and protein production among Guernsey herds with more than 60 cows. How is this achieved? How does the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm continue to stand out? 

When W.D. Hoard moved to Wisconsin as a young man, he saw the people of this state making the same agricultural mistakes of those in New York: planting doomed wheat crops year after year, degrading the state’s shallow, glaciated soil. Using his knowledge both as a dairy farm apprentice and an admirer of Oneida Chief Thomas Cornelius, he began a crusade for land-conscious dairying with the idea, “We can raise good butter and good cheese, without killing our land, but rather enriching it.” 

Hoard didn’t stop there. Beyond advocating for enriched soil, he also famously declared the cow to be the “foster mother of the human race.” He considered it the dairyman’s responsibility to be as attuned to their herd as they were to their crops. 

In spirit of this vision, cow care and land management at the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm are seamless, interrelated processes. 

Our cows are fed a total mixed ration (TMR) of corn silage, haylage, ground corn, a protein mix, whey, vitamins, and minerals. Fermented feed is stored in plastic silage bags on the property. 

The high-quality feed fed to the Hoard’s Dairyman cows.

Manure produced by the cows is repurposed. Both freestall barns have automated alley scrapers that push the manure into a flush system, which then sends it to an above-ground manure storage structure. This concrete structure holds 5 million gallons of manure, which is used as fertilizer.

Further, every cow has an electronic tag that allows farm managers to track steps and milk production. And, since the herd is registered with the American Guernsey Association (another aspect of dairying made possible by W.D. Hoard), each animal has a name in addition to a number.

“The rule to be observed at all times toward the cattle, young and old, is that of patience and kindness,” said Hoard. “Remember this is the home of mothers. Treat each cow as a mother should be treated.”

Hoard believed in a trailblazing future of agricultural practice for the state of Wisconsin, and he believed the cow to be the map and key to making that happen. At the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery and in the pages of Hoard’s Dairyman magazine, we are dedicated to furthering that vision with our milk, our words, and our promise of agricultural integrity.

Share your Hoard’s Dairyman Farm Creamery cheese recipes with us!

Share your recipes with us!

We’re looking to expand our catalogue, and we want our readers to play a part. Send your personalized recipes to katiec@hoardscreamery.com for a chance to be featured in future Creamery Notes.  

History of the Guernsey cow: Quiz time!

Guernsey cow milk is “golden” because it contains high concentrations of _________. (Scroll past the image for the answer)

A. Beta-carotene (Vitamin A)

B. Butterfat

C. Protein

D. All of the above

A Guernsey cow

If you said “D. All of the above”, congratulations! You’re right!

Down on the Farm: Calf care

A Guernsey cow calf on the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm.

On the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm, calf care is front and center to providing top-quality milk to our consumers. It’s a carefully attuned process, and it’s one our farmers take seriously. 

A mother cow (or dam) has a “dry” period of about 60 days before she gives birth. During this time, she is not milked and is fed a special ration to ensure her needs and the needs of the fetus are being met. On the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm, the cows due to calve are housed in a designated barn with straw-laden maternity pens.

A University of Kentucky Extension report noted that since the growth of the fetus takes biological priority over maintaining the mother’s own nutrient stores, an underfed dam will have trouble calving, and both the calf and mother may struggle with low performance. Thus, closely monitoring cows close to calving in a designated barn like the one we have is critical to ensuring cow and calf health through the end of the pregnancy.

Once a dam has given birth, her calf is moved to a calf hutch. These individual hutches help prevent the spread of diseases from calf-to-calf and support the calves’ immune systems by protecting them from the wind (in the cooler months) and providing shade (in the warmer months). Shortly after birth, they are fed colostrum — the milk secreted by the mammary glands directly before and after birth — which helps to further develop the calves’ immune system. After that first meal, calves are either fed pasteurized milk or, like they are on the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm, milk replacer, which can be compared to baby formula.

After their initial stay in the hutches, calves at the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm move in a cohort of 16 to a group pen in a barn ventilated by fans and tubes and bedded with straw. There, they are fed milk replacer through autofeeders until it’s time to be weaned.

The autofeeders operate much like the milking robots. A calf’s identification tag indicates to the autofeeder whether or not the calf is eligible for feeding. (They can drink up to 7 liters per day spread over multiple meals.) If they are, the autofeeder will send milk from its stainless-steel basin to the teat, allowing the calf to nurse. 

After 7 weeks, calves are weaned and moved into larger groups. Springing heifers are moved into that maternity barn a month before calving. (For those unfamiliar with dairying terms, a heifer refers to a cow who has not yet given birth or produced milk, and a springing heifer refers to a heifer in her final weeks of pregnancy.) 

Then, the process starts over again: birth-ready attention, calving, calf hutches, calf barn, heifer stalls. 

During my visit to the Hoard’s Dairyman Farm this spring, the calves were peeking out of their hutches as I approached to snap photos. I thought about the milk in my tea and the yogurt in my smoothie and how these little faces, with their dark, curious eyes, and the farmers who care for them make it all possible.